COLD FEET!

Winter steelheading goes hand in hand with cold feet.  One of the the things discussed often this time of year is how to keep your feet warm in this cold weather.  Luckily, of all the things I like to discuss about fishing…how to keep your feet warm and healthy is something of which I just happen to be an expert.  And, that expertise is not just from my experience over the years.  I just happen to have an earned doctorate dealing specifically with the medical and surgical care of FEET :-)

You really just need a little understanding and then to keep in mind a couple of simple rules to keep your feet comfortable in cold water.

You have to start with a little understanding of the circulation to the feet.  The feet are the farthest structure in the body from the heart in reference to strong circulation and perfusion.  That is the 1st important thing you have to understand.

When the body starts to get cold, it is going to maintain it’s primary focus on maintaining core temperature before it concerns itself with increasing any blood flow to the feet to keep them warm.  If your core is cold, your brain will actually cause vasoconstriction, or slight slowing of the circulation to the feet and hands to make sure the vital organs stay warm and function properly.  So, the 1st thing you want to do to keep your feet warm is to layer your core correctly to keep it warm so that the body itself does not want to restrict any of that warming blood flow to the feet.

If you understand that basic piece of human physiology, you are off to a good start.  Now that we have the body on our side, we have to take a couple of measures to help the feet stay warm.

First, you have to properly layer the right types of stockings on your feet to keep them warm.  The most important thing you have to lose is COTTON SOCKS.  This type of sock has poor insulation value and holds any moisture from perspiration or leaky waders right against the skin…resulting in heat loss.  So, dump the cotton socks.

The 1st layer of sock I recommend directly against the skin is a knee high stocking made of a microfiber blend that will wick any moisture away from the skin.  I recommend this layer being knee high because you want that sock to wick any moisture up and away from the feet.  A short sock to the level of the ankle cannot get that moisture past the boot, and since all waders leak and your feet will likely sweat some, you want that layer against the skin to be able to wick any moisture up and away.

Now that you have the correct 1st layer, you want to add a bulky insulating 2nd layer that will create insulation value and also be able to wick any moisture as well.  BULKY is the key here.  This layer creates a layer with some air in it to increase the insulation value.  Wool is really optimal here.  I like wool from sheep, but alpaca wool is even better because is seems to be a little stronger and compresses less from walking and boot pressure.  There are also a number of bulky stockings out there now that are blends of wool and microfiber that are viable options.

I also add a 3rd layer.  Several companies out there have thin neoprene stockings.  Now, if you make the neoprene the layer against your skin, it will hold any moisture right there and just result in heat loss…ultimately making your feet cold when fishing in cold water.  BUT, if you make the thin neoprene stocking your outer most layer it will act as an excellent insulator and help keep the warmth you have from escaping so rapidly.  And, if you are using a breathable wader with neoprene stocking feet you are now really helping to increase that insulation value.  

If you have ever been involved in scuba diving in moderately cold water, and you couldn’t use a dry suit, you probably used a farmer John neoprene dive suit.  The value of that type of suit is that it doubles the layers of the neoprene over your core to help keep that body heat you’re generating in around your core.  The same principle can be employed here if you layer correctly.

The second thing you have to consider after layering correctly is NOT compressing or squeezing the foot so tightly with those layers and your wading boot that it actually inhibits the proper circulation to your feet.  So, if you layer correctly, but your wading boots become so tight that it is squeezing the circulation right out of your feet…you have accomplished nothing in keeping your feet warm.  Remember, we layer the core correctly so that the body does not restrict blood flow to the feet, don’t make the layers so tight on the feet that you then restrict blood flow to the feet.

I actually have Winter wading boots that are a size larger than what I wear when I don’t need to layer so much.  If you are going to wade in the icy cold waters during the Winter months, this is something you need to consider.

The last thing to consider is to keep moving throughout the day.  The most important thing anyone can do when they have any kind of circulation issue to the feet is walk and keep the circulation moving.  Now, as a Winter steelheader, you probably know that the fish tend to be in slower pools and you find yourself staying in one spot longer than you might in warmer conditions.  So, make yourself move around some.  Walk to another hole, preferably out of the water to get and keep that circulation moving. 

Keeping your feet warm in the Winter is not as difficult as it may seem if you follow these simple rules.  And keeping your feet warm will keep you on the water longer to enjoy your fishing!

Now that you can keep your feet warm in the cold, let’s take your Winter steelheading to the next level.  Call me.  LET’S GO FISHIN’!

ICY GUIDES?

It's getting cccccold. The main complaint I hear about fly fishing in the cold is icy guides. Sooo, is there a way to cut back on how much ice forms in those guides? Glad you asked!

Certainly use an ice-off paste. Apply it the night before and then reapply as needed through your fishing day.

BUT, is there more to it than that? Remember, your WET line constantly moving through the guides is really what leads to all of that ice. Maybe you could do some things to reduce how much water you pull through those guides to make all of that ice?

You want to maintain good drifts, tight lines, and recast while moving minimal line through the guides. WHAT?

I have several focuses when I'm fishing in the ice box.

1. Do as much roll casting and flipping of your line as you can. By "flipping", I mean water loading your rod at the end of your drift and casting or "flipping" the line back up stream without overhead casting at all.

2. Make good mends to maintain your drifts, BUT instead of pulling line in through the guides to keep "tight" consider managing the line with other methods.

A. High stick, even when indi fishing

B. Take a few steps forward or a few steps backwards to keep from having too much slack line.

3. Keep the rod tip out of the water.

See, you can keep out all of the line you like, make good drifts, cast, and still keep from constantly moving wet line through those guides....until you catch one. But hey, that's worth clearing some ice from the guides at that point!

And last but not least, the less you are running wet line through your guides, the less it is winding on to your reel as well. And that helps prevent that reel from freezing solid and then getting broke off by a trophy fish. Just remember to wind that reel a half rotation or so now and then to make sure it isn't frozen up.

Winter Steelhead trips will refine your game better than any other time of year. As long as the creeks are not frozen...we're fishing. Call me. LET'S GO FISHIN'!

Got My Unicorn Brah!

A memorable day on the creek yesterday!

Simplifying the Great Debate: Fluorocarbon vs. Nylon: INVISIBILITY

I read and hear conversations all of the time debating the advantages & disadvantages of nylon monofilament vs fluorocarbon monofilament for leaders and tippet.  Once again, the real question is:  How much of the stuff you hear/read on this topic is truth versus marketing hype?  Let’s see if we can sort some of this out.

TRUTH:  Fluorocarbon has a closer refractive index to water than that of nylon.

Yes folks this is a cold hard scientific fact.  Refractive index essentially refers to a number indicating  how much the speed of light is reduced in a given medium.  I just got a headache from typing that.  Water has a refractive index of 1.3330.  Fluorocarbon has a refractive index of 1.42.  Nylon monofilament refractive indices range from 1.53-1.62.  BUT, does that really mean fluorocarbon is invisible in water?

MYTH: Fluorocarbon is nearly invisible to fish in water.

Clear back in 2001 a guy named Jeff Thomson wrote an article called, “Mathematical Theory of Fishing Line Visibility”.  Now, I can’t find that this is an actual peer reviewed published article, but I have read the presentation he did on the topic and it is pretty good.  He essentially breaks down how light refraction, reflection, and scatter in water works from a mathematical equation perspective and then applies the properties of water and fluorocarbon in those equations.  It’s painful to read if you do not have a science and research background (and even then, it’s pretty painful).  He ultimately concluded that considering all of the variables involved, in reality, fluorocarbon monofilament is not “invisible” in water.

Anecdotal evidence (a limited selection of examples which support or refute an argument, but which are not supported by scientific or statistical analysis) by many fisherman suggest that, yes fluorocarbon is less visible to fish than nylon monofilament.  So, is this true?  Maybe…

A lot of folks have reported many types of tests to quantify this (non-scientific tests, but interesting nonetheless).  People have put lengths of same diameter nylon and fluorocarbon in glasses of water, aquariums, in lakes and rivers, and looked at them and photographed them.  The majority of those folks report they can’t see a difference between the two.  Of course they all admit they are not fish under water looking at the materials with the naked eyes of fish.

My own anecdotal evidence suggests that in clear water, steelhead most certainly see fluorocarbon monofilament line when it drifts towards them and they move out of the way from the offering (no matter what it is) well in advance of it ever getting to them.  While I cannot write a peer reviewed scientific paper based on my observations, I’m comfortable saying, in gin clear water….fish can see fluorocarbon monofilament line.

YET, I do construct my leaders from and use tippet material made of fluorocarbon.  Why is that if it is not invisible and certainly costs more?  For me it’s simple.  I guide clients with varying degrees of experience.  And fluorocarbon does give me some advantages. 

Fluorocarbon has higher tensile strength at smaller diameters than nylon.  I want to give clients every advantage I can, knowing full well when they are with me they are in the middle of a big learning curve on how to catch steelhead on the fly rod.  So, it is true, fish are less spooked by smaller diameter line and if I can use a smaller diameter line that is stronger to help a client get a fish to hand, it’s a win win. 

Once someone is comfortable with proper presentation of offerings and how to land a big crazy fish on fly gear, many of the reported advantages of fluorocarbon may not be as significant.  From my perspective, I have a very limited amount of time to spend with any given client to cover a ton of material and get some fish in their hands.  In that setting, fluorocarbon limits some of the issues with presentation error and helps a little with not breaking off fish when making common mistakes fighting and landing these big fish. 

From my personal fishing perspective, at the end of the day, hooking fish still comes down to precise PRESENTATION PRESENTATION PRESENTATION.  In my opinion, the visibility of the line plays very little role in whether I hook fish.  And there a a multitude of other ways we spook fish and shut down a bite before we ever get out lines in the water.  In previous articles we have discussed that fish see a lot in an out of the water that does not even relate to line visibility.  And this does not even account for things we do unknowingly that disturb a run before we even get close to it.  We would be hard pressed to narrow why we are not catching fish down to the visibility of the line we use.  But it can be a piece of the overall picture that also should not be neglected.

To me, it’s more of an issue of making the right kind of presentation in low gin clear water than having an invisible line.  For example, swinging an offering down in front of fish presents only the offering to the fish (not the line), where drifting an offering does tend to present the line and offering at the same time.  And in the case of Steelhead Alley steelhead, they get educated to line drifting at them pretty quickly from the moment they enter the tributaries.

I’ll discuss other topics within this specific debate in upcoming articles.  Until then, if you’re gonna be in northeast Ohio or northwest Pennsylvania on business and want to spend a day on the water or you are local and just want to work on some aspect of your steelhead game…call me!  LET’S GO FISHIN’!

Fish Vision: Color Underwater

Now that we know what fish see above the water’s surface, what do they see in the water?  Let’s start with color.  

We discussed in the previous article that water has different optical properties than air.  Water is about 780 times more dense than air.  As light hits water, not only does the light bend, it is selectively scattered and absorbed.  Greater than 75% of the visible spectrum is absorbed within about 30 feet.

Here’s what you need to know and think about.  In clear water, the colors we see as red, yellow, and orange are lost first.  “Lost”, meaning scattered and absorbed.  The colors we see as violet, blue and green reach farther, with blue penetrating to nearly 500 feet.  How far light penetrates on a given day depends on the angle of the sun, the roughness of the water’s surface, and how much sediment is suspended in the water (turbidity).

Light intensity plays a big part in how a fish perceives color. Fishing on a sunny day will allow light from the sky to penetrate much deeper through the water column than on a day with clouds. Shiny colors like silver and gold are less effective when cloud cover rolls in, and can become almost invisible without the sun shining, even in clear water. The reason for this is that they reflect the grayness that is surrounding them, instead of the bright rays of the sun. Casting darker colors (like blues and purples) in low light (whether due to cloudiness, early or late in the day, or water with a high amount of suspended sedimentation) often work best by giving your fly the greatest contrast and silhouette. 

***So remember, as the sun sets (or at sunrise), cloudy days, or in stained water, colors like red, yellow, & orange will disappear the quickest. Blue, violet, and green are seen by fish much better in these low light conditions.

Now, what about all of these shiny materials and UV enhanced materials we see for files these days?  Great question!  Glad you asked.

First, there is some research that suggests that fish can sense polarized light (where we humans cannot separate polarized light from regular light).  Polarized light is unique in that it only vibrates in one plane.  I know, blah blah blah, but stick with me here.

When light is reflected off many nonmetallic surfaces, including the water’s surface, it is polarized to some degree.  Your polarized sunglasses block horizontally reflected light from the water’s surface, permitting only vertically reflected light through…thus reducing glare.

What does all of this have to do with fish vision?  It’s thought that fish that can see polarized light use the ability to help them find food.  When light reflects off of surfaces like fish scales, it becomes polarized.  A fish with polarizing vision can more easily make out baitfish and not lose them in the background of the plants and or rocks in the water.  It is also thought that fish with polarizing vision can see objects as much as three times further away.  AND, polarized light is most abundant at dawn and dusk.  Way back in 2001 a great study was done that showed in Oncorhynchus mykiss (our beloved steelhead), polarization sensitivity may provide these salmonids with an improved means of locating prey.  (That’s as crazy technical as I’ll get in these articles. I promise!) Now, this study was in juvenile fish.  There is some research that suggests that mature salmonids lose the ability to see polarized light.  And there is other research that suggests that salmonids regain that ability for a time when they reenter the rivers and streams to spawn.

Now you understand why many companies that make materials for fly tying are manufacturing “Polar” products.  Steelhead may be able to see them better, from further distances, and in lower light.  And this is how they look for food, at least as juveniles.  Think you might want to use this stuff in your flies?

What about all of this “UV” stuff (UV = ultraviolet light)?  It’s similar and pretty simple.  There is research that shows that colors that fluoresce in UV light are visible and distinct for longer distances than regular colors.  BAZINGA!  UV light is most is dominant on cloudy or gray days.  On sunny days, the fluorescence is much less.  So, under the right circumstances, we can take advantage of materials that fluoresce under UV light to gain a more visible and vibrant presentation.

All of our flies are used to imitate something fish feed on.  And at times, it can help to add in materials that can be seen by fish that can see polarized light and it can help to add fluorescent or “UV enhanced” materials to make the fly stand out.  Of course you must also understand that these enhancements could work against you when chasing fish that are in areas with abundant forage.  Fish key in on “hatches” very specifically at times because they are safe.  It is against their instinct to eat something unusual in those situations because it presents more risk to them.  So, you have to chose wisely for each situation.

Hopefully this gives you a concise little primer on why and when we use the colors and materials we use for various fishing conditions.  If you need more help drilling down your steelhead game…call me!  LET’S GO FISHIN’!

Fish Vision: Above the water

What do fish see?  I was asked this question at a steelhead exposition a few weeks back.  My initial answer was, “That is a much broader question than you might think.”  How fish see out of the water, in the water, and how light effects what they see is has been the topic of study for many many many graduate students and other researchers around the world.  It’s a great question.  And if you can have a basic understanding of a few of these concepts, it really can impact your fishing.

Let’s start with: What can fish see above the water?  First, you have to understand that fish live in water and water has very different optical properties than that of air.  Depending on the angle  light hits the water, a calm water surface can reflect up to 80% of the light hitting it.  And in rough water surfaces, there is tremendous variance in the transmission of light no matter what angle the light hits the water. 

That may sound technical, but it matters.  You are already starting to get an idea of why you can easily approach fish in some water and they are very spooky in other waters.  Surface movement of the water and the angle at which light hits the water plays a big role in what fish see out of the water.

The next concept you have to understand is that light bends (or refracts) when it enters the water.  So?  So, that allows each eye of the fish to see a certain area above the water that works in a different way than we normally see things.  Nearly everything a fish sees above the water appears in a circle (more of a cone really).  This circular window is smaller for fish close to the water surface and becomes larger the deeper the fish is in the water.  Outside of the window, the surface of the water appears as a mirror, reflecting the bottom. If the surface is choppy, the mirror effect is reduced.  In rough water this circular window is broken up and light is transmitted through continuously changing patterns. 

Yes there is a lot going on here. But you just need to be aware that fish see in a circle or cone above the water.  The circle is bigger for deeper fish and smaller for shallow fish.  You want to stay out of that cone.  To do this, you need to be back away from the fish and low to the horizon.  And there are other things that can help.  Low light conceals you even more and rougher water is further helpful.  And now you can see why fish in smooth water on a sunny day just scatter as you approach them.  

I tell folks everyday, “Know where the fish should be for the day’s conditions and fish for them in those places.”  Do not get fixated on fish you can see, rather fish the places they should be.  And those are places you cannot normally even see the fish.  Now you better understand why the fish also struggle to see you if you approach them correctly in these places.  That is a combination that makes for a great day on the water.  It also helps you understand how precise things have to be on those occasions when you are sight fishing.

Are you ready to take your steelhead game to the next level.  I can help you with that.  Call me.  LET’S GO FISHIN’!

GUIDE?

guide

n.

   a. One who shows the way by leading, directing, or advising.

   b. One who serves as a model for others, as in a course of conduct.

I tell people all of the time, "In life, you either are a guide or you are not."

Some folks gravitate towards teaching others, no matter what they are doing. That certainly has been the case for me, whether it was coaching wrestling, teaching students & residents, guiding patients, or guiding fly fishing adventures. One either lives to teach or they don't.

I was talking to a young man just getting into the guiding business a few weeks ago. It was a great conversation. He has all of the tools be be a great fishing guide.

Even if you are not a guide, stay with me...it matters to all of us in the end.

The young man was concerned about the actions he had observed in other guides. The first thing I told him was that you cannot control the actions of others. So spending time losing stomach acid over things you cannot control will only make you sick and not help the situation.

Most importantly, we discussed the role of servant leadership. The way to change the world is not to scream, yell, and bully others into your view. In fact, the way to change your world is to lead by example.

I told him we all make mistakes along the way, but what matters is that we pick ourselves up and get better tomorrow from today's failures.

A most important concept for a guide of any type to embrace is that it is NEVER our job to judge clients (or other guides for that matter). Clients come to us with a variety experience and backgrounds. Some have never picked-up a fly rod. Some have traveled the world. Some are just easy to be around. Some are difficult to spend a day with.

Whatever their experiences and attitudes, our job is not to judge them, but to guide them. Our job is to lead the way and find a way to lead them. Our job is to find common ground to reach them and relate to them so that they get out of the day what they need.

Our job is never to compare our experiences and worry about whether we could have caught more fish, handled fish better, or just had a better attitude in general. Our job is to gently lead.

One of the hardest notions to get past as a guide is that the client should meet our expectations. We have to enter every day with only one expectation and that is to meet the clients needs for the day. A client will likely never meet our expectations because they do not have our experience. Spending your day irritated because a client does not know everything you know should leave you considering a different vocation. In saying that, quite often it is important to be able to reset a client's expectations for the conditions of the day as well.

There is a joy in servant leadership. There is nothing better than watching a client start feeling the load of a fly rod and then begin moving line efficiently. It is so satisfying to share a moment with a client when they land that fish they have been after for years. Sharing in someone else's journey is simply satisfying.

As I shared these things with the young man, he said, "You should write this stuff down and share it." I hem and hawed around about it for awhile and decided to do so. While I hope it will help others refine their thoughts on guiding, I hope it will help fishermen in general.

One of the things I see on the water all of the time is fishermen judging other fishermen. We spend way too much time worrying how others fish and if we are better or could have caught "that" fish...when we should really just be enjoying the day. 

My encouragement for the day is live and let live on the stream. No one else on the stream needs to meet your expectations. If they fish a certain way, why do you care? Let them be. There are many ways to catch fish and they are all valid. If folks are doing something illegal, call the local authorities. Otherwise, take a deep breath and enjoy your time on the water. That time is far too limited to be irritated about how others fish or be worried about whether you are a better fisherman.

Now...LET'S GO FISHIN'!

STREAM HYDROLOGY

I've had several folks ask me lately why a specific amount of rainfall can mean the creek is blown sometimes and not even bump the flows at others. It all boils down to simple stream hydrology. Once you have a very basic understanding of stream hydrology, you'll better be able to predict the effect of rainfall or snowmelt on your favorite Great Lakes tributary.

Streams are created when excess water from rain, snowmelt, or near-surface groundwater accumulates on the ground surface and begins to run downhill. Excess water from rain or snowmelt occurs when the water accumulates at a faster rate than the soil and organic matter can absorb the water, plants can use it, or the water can be evaporated into the air.

Let's repeat that, "...water accumulates at a faster rate than the soil and organic matter can absorb the water, plants can use it, or the water can be evaporated into the air." This is what you have to consider for each season when trying to figure out what impact the rain is going to have on a creek you want to fish.

So, lately folks are wondering, "Why does half an inch of rain do nothing for the creek in September or early October, yet create several days of sustained flows in December?"

It's easy really. The ground is bone dry right now. The trees still have leaves and all of the ground flora is still using significant water as well. And, the air temperatures are still warm and causing a greater amount of evaporation.

Once the temperatures drop, the leaves fall off of the trees, and the grasses and weeds go dormant, the soil will saturate more quickly (or the ground surface will just plain be frozen). This will result in higher sustained flows and smaller amounts of rainfall will have a greater impact on flows.

It's that simple. Not everyone has an educational background in the earth sciences, so there is no reason for this to be intuitive to everyone. Now you know and now you can better predict how NOAAs rainfall projections may impact your favorite streams. Keep track of it and within a couple of years you'll always know what is likely to be going on where you like to fish!

Who's ready for a steelhead trip? Call me! LET'S GO FISHIN'!

Fall Steelhead Tips!

The early Fall steelhead season is upon us across Ohio and Pennsylvania. The weather and water is

still warm and the fish are HOT! Here are a few tips to get them in your hand.

1. Back off that drag. Set the drag tight enough to keep your reel from backlashing. Keep it light and let them run. You can palm the reel when necessary or increase the drag if you feel it is necessary after the 1st couple of runs.

2. When the creeks are low and clear, look for fast deep runs for active fish. Sure, there are fish in those holes with no flow. And for the most part, you want to pass them by. If you must, strip a streamer through those pools a few times and then move on. The fish in those pools are very spooky. Your presence, shadows, and plopping your fly in the water will usually scatter them. You are not likely to catch those fish. Just move on. 

When you find fast deep cuts, they will likely hold fish. The fish are less spooky because they feel concealed by the moving water and they are more likely to feed in moving water.

3. If you have ever wanted to try swinging flies...now is the time. These early fish are very aggressive and with the warmer water temperatures, they will chase a swung streamer a long way. And, you don't have to have a 2 handed rod to swing flies, it works just as well with single hand rods. Position yourself at the top of a fast run and cast your streamer (down stream) across the stream at about a 45 degree angle. Then just let the streamer swing across the flow. The early season conditions afford you your best chance to have a big day of multiple fish on the swing. Just be ready, because when they hit, they might pull your arms off. And of course you can catch them swinging flies during any season, this is just an exceptionally good time if you are new to swinging.

4. Streamers mimicking emerald shiners work exceptionally well in the early Fall. BUT, don't hesitate to downsize your offering when conditions are low and clear. Simple hare's ear and pheasant tail nymphs always work well. And steelhead are always suckers for single egg patterns, even when there are not any eggs around just yet.

5. Do not hesitate to downsize that tippet in the low and clear. 4x is a good choice and at times 5x is not out of the question if the fish are being stubborn. That being said, landing a juiced-up fresh steelhead on 5x can be tough.

SALMON TIPS for the GREAT LAKES!

I've caught a lot of salmon all over the Great Lakes region over the years. Whenever I fish, I observe

the same common situations that lead to high snag rates and low catch rates. So, I decided to take a few minutes and hammer out some tips to increase your catch rate and decrease your snag rates.

1. Construct a good fluorocarbon tapered leader. I construct my salmon leaders with 25lb, 20lb, and 15lb fluorocarbon and then the 4th section is my 1st section of tippet. The 1st section of tippet consists of 1x or 2x fluorocarbon (depending on water clarity). You will never turn the fishes head with a lightly constructed leader. I like to make my leaders the length of my rod. You'll figure out what works for you.

2. Never underestimate the power of a small offering for salmon. Look, the reality is, there is no rhyme or reason as to why king salmon ever hit anything. There are arguments that they are aggression strikes only. Others argue that even though they really don't feed much in the river, they can't stop their instincts from hitting food. Who knows? All I know is that sometimes they do strike an offering, and that is the fish I'm looking for. The majority of salmon I catch around the Great Lakes region are on #12-14 hares ear nymphs, stone flies, or egg patterns. I do catch them on hex nymphs as well.

3. Yes, they do hit streamers on the swing. So don't hesitate in trying this. Be willing to mix it up with a variety of offerings.

4. Look for areas of shallow redds and fish the deep water behind them. Every once in a while I see an aggressive buck strike an offering on a redd, but the majority of legitimate strikes are by fish behind the redds in deeper water. Often these are aggressive bucks that are sparring back and forth and nailing everything in their path, regardless of size. This is also a great place to catch brown trout and steelhead gorging on eggs. 

Fishing directly over redds will likely only result in foul hooking fish. Getting fixated on the fish you can see will waste a ton of your time and keep you from actually making offerings to fish that are likely to hit.

5. Relax and let your offering drift freely! If a salmon hits your fly...you'll know it. You will likely rarely ever need a pro bass tour set to hook a salmon. When you jerk your offering every time it bumps something, you are setting yourself up to foul hook fish constantly. Frankly, I get irritated when I foul hook a fish. Above and beyond the fact that snagging is no longer legal, it's annoying and robs me of flies and time to be pursuing fish that will hit. So, relax and let that offering swing through the run you are fishing. Your offering is going to bump rocks, logs, and the plethora of fish stuffed in the holes during salmon season.

When a salmon hits you will know it. When you lift your rod at that point you will almost always immediately see a huge salmon head shaking back and forth and it's mouth opening and closing. When you see that, you'll know you did it right! And then....hold on 

Also remember that tight lining your drift results in lining (or flossing) of salmon and a much higher rate of foul hooking. One last time, relax and let that offering freely drift through the run. You can do this whether you use an indicator or not.

6. Use as little weight possible to get your offering down. I have chuck & ducked a couple of times when I was on rivers with tremendous flow and deep holes. I can't say I enjoyed it in the least. It is not a relaxing or pleasurable way to spend a day, but occasionally, it is necessary. 

The vast majority of the time I am able to use 1-3 BB size splits and that is plenty of weight to get my offering to the level of aggressive fish. The more weight you add, the more likely you are to line or snag fish, even when that is not your intent. I leave a long tag from the blood knot connecting my 3rd and 4th leader sections and apply my split shots to that tag. This lets my offerings drift more naturally in the water without the splits being directly in line with my flies. 

7. Make peace with the fact that you are just going to lose some of these fish, even when you do everything right. When salmon are fresh in the rivers they are powerful. You can do everything right and they can still take you to your backing and stick you in a log. Sometimes there is nothing you can do about it. You can't get down river fast enough. When they have you to your backing, you can't keep enough pressure on them or turn them out of a log. The fact is, they win and it is what it is. If you did everything right and did not get the fish in your hand, you come to better appreciate just how powerful and spectacular these fish are. Tip your hat to them and hit the next run.

Consider these things on your next Great Lakes Salmon trip and you will catch more fish and waste less time retying and chasing foul-hooked fish!

If you want some more personal coaching, sign up for one of our 2 retreats next Fall!  LET'S GO FISHIN'!

Let's Get It Started!

All of this cool weather and rain has me thinking about steelhead.  Of course, I'm always thinking about steelhead, but even more the past week.  I decided to get out for a few minutes this morning a poke around a few streams.  Right before sunrise, this little hen gave me the good morning kiss I was looking for.  Things are still pretty quiet on the tribs, but with this continued cool weather and more rain, there will be chrome screaming up the streams.

The question is: Are you ready?  Fall dates are booking fast.  Call me.  LET'S GO FISHIN'!

The cork has been popped off for the season!

CASTING COACH: Two-Handed Casting Grip

Before we go any farther with single-handed casting, I want to stop and introduce a couple of things about two-handed casting. There is a lot of interest in two-handed casting these days. Two-handed casting is as simple as single-handed casting. I want to introduce the two-handed casting grip here because much of what we learned about single handed casting up to this point is EXACTLY the same for two-handed casting. So, you might as well come to the realization that you are learning important things about them both at the same time, whether you previously realized it or not. And for those of you that already have single-handed casting down and are interested in two-handed casting, this will show you that you are already farther down the road than you thought.

Knowing the point of balance of your 2-handed rod is important. This point is where you will place your hand on the forward grip. Gripping the forward grip in this place cuts back on fatigue because you won't have to grip the cork so tightly to lift the tip off the water all day long. Now, if you have shorter arms and want to move that balance point back a little, you can add weight to the reel or get a heavier reel. This is one reason you should consider getting your reel after you get your rod. Shoot me a note if you would like for me to share with you how to properly balance your rod (too much info for this segment). Also, depending on what you are casting, you may need the forward hand closer to or further from the reel. You may need to move your hand up further on the grip when using long belly lines. You may need to move the hand closer to the reel when casting short belly lines like Skagit or Scandi lines. Shorter belly lines require more use of the bottom arm to casting the short belly lines. So, find the balance point of your rod and then work on your grip from there.

Now, look back at our lessons on how to grip a single-hand rod. The grip on the forward rod grip of a two-handed is the EXACT same grip.

See, you already know what to do. More important, I want to you focus on the position of the rod in this picture. This picture represents that point right after a cast. Notice the forward rod grip is right along my forearm and the back grip is practically in my armpit. Practice holding the rod in this position, build muscle memory for this position, and make it feel natural. This combined grip needs to be wide and the back grip needs to be in next to the body at the end of a cast (not extended a foot away from the body). Trust me! Practice this position. Make it second nature. Fixing this now will make your casting so much easier when we start discussing it.

This is just a view from the opposite side of the body. 

Grip the Back Grip with your opposite hand as if you were shaking the rod's hand. Now, relax and be comfortable with that grip. No hard white-knuckling squeeze is necessary.

This picture is also a great place to discuss stance. 

As with the grip, stance should be comfortable and allow you to make the necessary rotations and transfer of body weight needed to cast. 

If you cast right-handed you want the left foot forward so that you can rotate around to the right. If your right foot is forward, you cannot rotate enough (back to the right).

If you want to make a cast from the opposite shoulder or cast left-handed, switch your feet so that the right foot is forward to allow for adequate rotation to the left.

While you are practicing the grip and post-cast positions, be mindful of your stance as well and get used to it.

Work on all of the things suggested in this series. Build your muscle memory and make it comfortable. You'll be ready for the next lesson of roll casting with the two-handed rod in no time!

Are you ready to work on your casting? Call me. LET'S GET CASTING!

From Grandpa...

Jacob's grandmother called me a few weeks ago. His grandfather passed several years ago and left Jacob some fly fishing gear. Now that he is about to turn 12, she wanted to get him some casting lessons so he could put the old fly rod to work. Of all of the stuff we do at Fisher of Men Outfitters, this is the stuff I live for! What a great time introducing the next generation of fly fishers to the sport. Jacob really took to casting quickly. Below are the feedback pictures I sent to Jacob this morning. These pictures are not staged. They are photos I take throughout the lesson as we work on each technique. This is the stuff I do for each casting lesson so that you have a way to better reflect on your lesson and make ongoing adjustments.

Are you ready to start casting or tweak your casting? Call me! LET'S GET CASTING!

False Cast

We were working on false casting to increase line speed, move line, and tighten loops on the stream yesterday. Visualize that line rolling off of the tip of your rod. 

As I told Steve, the 1st rate limiting step to fly fishing is being able to cast enough line to get an offering to the fish. False casting like this can better help you not only visualize what your line is doing, but also help you feel what the rod and line are doing as you make LOADING MOVES to POWER SNAPS.

Are you ready to take your game to the next level? Call me! LET'S GO FISHIN'!

CASTING COACH: ROLL CAST

The Roll Cast is a most important cast. Not only is it the simplest cast for beginners, but it might just be the most versatile and most important cast you learn. In fact, I'd say, when casting small streams, it's far more important than overhead casting.

The Roll Cast includes all of the 3 steps we learned in our last lesson: Loading Move, Power Snap, & Follow Through. The difference being that the roll cast has only a forward cast (no backcast). As with everything we have discussed so far, attention to the details of hand/arm positions is fundamental to a good roll cast. So, stay focused on the hand and arm and you will be making perfect roll casts in very short order. The steps are outlined with the photographs below.

In this starting position, just check a few quick things. The grip needs to be proper and relaxed. A target needs to be chosen (we never just cast at nothing...right?). While you can roll cast with a square stance, this is a good time to check your stance. Have the foot of the casting arm slightly back. This will be more comfortable and get you used to this important position. Having that foot back will allow rotation at the hips which will be important later with other casts. 

Once you are ready, then lift the rod (tilted out slightly) to the position we learned for the backcast in previous lessons.

Once in the backcast position, you have all of the time in the world to make your roll cast. So, RELAX and CHECK ALL OF YOUR HAND AND ARM POSITIONS.

If the hand and arm positions are correct, confirm that your line is making a D-Loop behind you (it will make the shape of a "D" with your rod).

Ok, hand/arm positions are correct and you have a D-Loop. Now we're going to make our 1st LOADING MOVE to a POWER SNAP.

The LOADING MOVE (motion which causes the line to load energy into the rod) consists of rotating the arm down at the shoulder joint and extending the forearm at the elbow joint. The motion is most easily thought of like a chopping motion with a Tomahawk (though not that forceful).

This image just helps you better visualize the need to have the rod tilted slightly out to be able to form the D-Loop.

As you come down to this position with the LOADING MOVE, the POWER SNAP consists of the position we learned for the stop of the forward cast.

The POWER SNAP consists of an abrupt stop while simultaneously pressing the rod grip with the bottom of your thumb and rolling pressure to the bottom of the rod grip sequentially from the 5th finger to the index finger. Remember, you are stopping with the end of the thumb pointing right at your target. 

As quickly as you made the abrupt stop with the POWER SNAP, relax your grip and gently lower your rod tip for the FOLLOW THROUGH.

BANG! You got it! Take your time, relax, check all of your positions, and practice practice practice. This is easy if you just use the skills you have already learned and now put them together.

Sometimes the wind is working against you, blowing from your casting shoulder across your body. When this happens it will blow your D-Loop right into you and make is difficult to complete your roll cast. What to do?

It's simple, you'll just roll cast off of your opposite shoulder this time. The steps are the same except this time you will bring your grip up to the level of your forehead lined-up with your nose in the center of your head. Tilt the rod over your opposite shoulder this time and let the D-Loop form on the opposite side of your body.

Relax, check all of your positions, and proceed with your LOADING MOVE, POWER SNAP, and FOLLOW THROUGH.

From the back so you can see the proper rod tilt for roll casting off of the opposite shoulder.

Once you have mastered this you will be half way home with the basic overhead cast. Remember, focus on mastering the fundamentals of the hand and arm positions for each of these steps and you will cut years off of becoming a fantastic fly caster!

Are you ready to start casting or improve your casting? I can help you with that. Call me! LET'S GET CASTING!

CASTING COACH

1. Loading Move

2. Power Snap

3. Follow Through 

For the next several days while you are perfecting your grip and working on the hand and arm positions for the forward and back casting strokes, MEMORIZE these 3 phrases in this sequence. Be able to repeat them instinctually. 

Next week we will start casting with the Roll Cast. We will combine the 2 previous lessons with this sequence and make a perfect roll cast. You'll want to be able to speak these 3 phrases as you are doing them, so memorize them now and then we will put them to work.

Are you ready to start fly casting or take your casting to the next level? Call me. LET'S GET CASTING!

CASTING COACH

You've practiced your grip for a few days and have learned not only how to position the rod grip in your hand, but you've also learned to relax the hand around that rod grip. The next step in learning fly casting or improving your casting is to focus on what you need to be able to do just with the rod hand and arm. Focus right here for a few days and when it's time to start casting, it will be oh so easy.

All we want to do now is focus on what happens with the hand and the arm when they stop for the forward cast stroke and the backcast stroke. There is a lot happening here and it is important to get each piece of this foundation correct to move to the next step.  So, focus on the details and positioning...it will be worth it.

The 1st thing to focus on with the forward casting stroke is the position of the wrist. Notice that the back of the thumb (actually the 1st metacarpal) is in line or parallel with the forearm. The elbow is bent and mildly extended, though you are not reaching foreword. The rod butt will be parallel to the bottom of your forearm. The end of your thumb and your eyes are pointed towards your target. Make sure you always have a target. You have to be casting to something. Know what it is with every cast!

When you are making the stop for the forward casting stroke, you are simultaneously pressing the rod grip with the bottom of your thumb and rolling pressure to the bottom of the rod grip sequentially from the 5th finger to the index finger (this rolling pressure is what allows your fly line to properly roll over the tip of your rod and make a nice tight loop). Remember, you are stopping with the end of the thumb pointing right at your target. And, it is an abrupt stop and then a relaxed grip. Keep your shoulders square and keep your eyes focused on the target.

Right now, all you need to do is work on emphasizing these positions and gaining muscle memory with them. This part of the exercise does not yet involve casting or loading moves or follow throughs. You are teaching your brain and your muscles what it feels like to end right here.

The stop for the backcasting stroke involves another set of steps and positions. As with the forward casting stroke end position, this position also ends with an abrupt stop. The positions here are crucial to a good backcasting stroke and overall efficient casting

First, notice the top of the thumb (not the 1st metatacarpal, but the top of the thumb (proximal phalanx)) is now parallel with the forearm.

You are stopping the hand at the level of the temple or top of the ear (which ever is easier for you to relate to). The end of the thumb is pointing straight up now. If all of this is correct the rod butt should now be at a 45 degree angle to the bottom of the forearm. The upper arm has lifted (or arched really) up so that the forearm and upper are are at a 90 degree angle.

One thing that can help you know you are at the correct level is that you should still be able to see the end of your thumb with your peripheral vision. If you cannot your hand is likely too high or too far back.

When you make your abrupt stop for the backcasting stroke, all you want to do is just squeeze the rod grip. A quick abrupt squeeze to a stop and then relax. You have to relax after the squeeze to the stop so you are able to feel that rod load in the backcast in order to get ready for the next step. Sometimes when you are really focusing on all of these steps, positions, and angles, it is difficult to then relax that grip. But you have to focus on that too.

So, until next time, work on all of these positions for the foreword casting stroke and the backcasting stroke. Be precise. Pay full attention to each little piece. Don't worry about casting yet. We will get to that. For now, just build these proper positions and muscle memories.

Are you ready to start casting or improve your casting? I can help with that. Call me. LET'S GET CASTING!